Brian May Boost Pedal

I have to admit that I have been playing an incredible amount of guitar over the past few weeks. That has left little time for electronics work, but I did find time to build a little boost pedal. I was buying some parts I needed from Tayda, https://www.taydaelectronics.com/, and I usually pick up a guitar pedal enclosure or two when I order there. So, I bought this a month or two ago and finally looked at building it just a few days ago.

Check out the build guide and schematic here: https://www.taydakits.com/instructions/linear-power-booster/pages/designators-and-components–8

One PCB, Several Configurations

What I didn’t realize at the time I purchased it, is that you can build it several different ways and get different “flavors” of boost tone. As I looked at the options, one stood out to me – the Brian May Booster. Brian is the guitarist for the band Queen. His guitar tone is legendary, so I immediately started assembling that version.

Tayda offers a wide selection of PCBs, parts, and pedal enclosures. You can even order them painted and drilled if you would like to. For my project, I bought the enclosure painted, but not drilled out. I also ordered several parts from them, but I also have quite a large stash of various parts.

Assembly and Testing

The assembly is compact for this build. The small circuit board with single potentiometer is mounted in the top section, along with the DC input jack. In the middle, we have the input and output jacks with an LED nestled in between them. Down at the bottom is the footswitch. I used 24 gauge stranded wire for all of the connections. I have learned my lesson about wire and stranded vs. solid. Solid wires tend to break easily and are too stiff to bend into place. One mistake I made was that I initially wired the LED backwards and it did not illuminate. It was an easy fix, but still was troubling when I first connected it and saw no reaction from the LED. To test my work, I simply connected a 9V battery across the LED and resistor. I realized then that I had connected the LED backwards, de-soldered the resistor and V+ wire from it, swapped the two and soldered it back.

I didn’t intentionally select the metallic gold finish with the Brian May booster in mind, but I think it makes a bold statement and represents Queen properly. For the graphic, I actually asked ChatGPT for a pencil style drawing of Brian May. The first result was ok buy too complicated. I asked it to make it more simple. This resulted in a silhouette type of drawing, which I took into Photoshop and made a lot of adjustments to. There was a guitar in the image with 5 strings and hands with 3 fingers. That’s to be expected with AI, so I cropped, blended, blurred, edited, etc. Then I printed that onto a waterslide decal paper with a laser printer before carefully cutting out the graphic and applying it to the pedal enclosure. You could go an extra step and clear coat the enclosure to seal the decal in, but I did not. I’ve never had great luck with clear coating things.

The knob at the top is simply a volume knob. When using this pedal in a chain, it can really increase the gain and drive of the following pedals or amplifier. Even when used by itself, you do get some moderate break up saturation when it is turned up near the max. There is a lot of difference in the signal though, so you also need to adjust the amp equalizer and volume.

Conclusion

It’s quite rewarding to build something like this that has a bit of a custom flair to it, sounds amazing, and helps you learn more about audio electronics. I always learn things that will help with future projects. For this build, I bought a set of metric drill bits and that made this project much easier that some of my previous pedal build attempts. When drilling this enclosure, I stepped up my hole size by 2mm at a time until I got to the correct diameter. This really helped to keep the holes clean and precise. As if I don’t have enough going on already, I have been trying to learn QSPICE also. This is a simple circuit with several different boost configurations, so I think I can learn more by simulating it in QSPICE. If I think it is worth sharing, I will follow up with some info about that and I will be building some more pedals soon so stay tuned.

Feedback Drive of Erica Synths DIY BBD/Flanger Analysis

Today, I would like to go over the feedback drive circuit of the Erica Synths BBD/Flanger. Let’s jump right into it.

The Switch

SW3 is a double pole, double throw switch. In the center position, there is no “drive” and at up or down, it switches between 2 pairs of diodes (or LEDs) and 2 resistors or different values simultaneously. The resistors balance the gain between the two drive flavors and you will need to choose these resistors carefully for your specific module. As you can see below, there are 6 diodes shown on the schematic, however, only 4 are to be populated.

LEDs or Diodes?

You may use either LEDs or diodes in two of the VD6, VD7, VD10, and VD11 spots. VD4 and VD5 are meant to be 1N4148 silicon diodes. If you choose to use LEDs in the other drive spot, you would populate them in VD7 and VD10. You could use a different pair of diodes, such as BAT41 schottky diodes in the VD6 and VD11 spaces instead. The feedback drive switch, it simultaneously switches the diode pair and the resistor in the gain circuit (R71 or R72). This is where confusion begins to creep in for the builder. The BOM shows R71 as NU (not used) and R72 is shown as 10k. The schematic shows R71 as “Drive Gain” and R72 as 10k once again.

Mixed Signals in the Documents Leads to Confusion

The third source of information, the “Guide To Assembly” contains the following text at step 4 of the instructions.

“Next to the FEEDBACK DRIVE switch you’ll find solder pads for overdrive diodes. You can use any diodes of your taste for pairs VD4/VD5 and VD6/VD11 or VD7/VD10 which are LEDs. The kit contains two red LEDs (if you use LEDs, do not populate VD6/VD11) and 1N4148 for VD4/VD5. You may experiment here with different diodes (try germanium diodes for softer overdrive) of LEDs of various colours it will result in different overdrive flavour. I used 33k for R71 and 100k for R72 in the overdrive configuration supplied with a kit.”1

As you can see, in the build guide, Erica Synths calls out that they used 33k for R71 and 100k for R72. If you make this mistake, you will have a module that has a severe volume change when switching between those drive flavors. I’ll be honest, it has been a month or so since I worked on this module and I don’t remember the exact resistor values I used, but that is also not important. The important part is that you figure out the correct value for the module you are building. In step 7 of Erica’s build document they state this: R71 sets the gain for VD4/VD5 and R72 sets the gain for LEDs (VD6/VD11 or VD7/VD10). You need to adjust the gain of the feedback signal so that the module goes into self-oscillation at approximately the same settings for all switch positions.

Resource for Diode / LED Clipping

As I studied this part of the build, I found a webpage that does a fantastic job of describing saturation flavors from a variety of diodes and LEDs.

https://www.guitarpedalx.com/news/gpx-blog/a-brief-hobbyist-primer-on-clipping-diodes

Several circuits listed there, as well as comparisons between the diodes and LEDs. It is a great resource if you are building this module or anything else where diode clipping is involved. At some point in the future, I have a plan to build a diode clipper circuit from scratch. Distortion and saturation is one of my favorite things, so stay tuned for that.

Footnotes
  1. https://www.ericasynths.lv/media/BBD_Delay_manual_assembly1.pdf ↩︎